Personal Final Reflections and Summary

Travel to India - February 2020

Once back in the UK the throbbing urge not to forget pushes me to write these lines. After having slept in my lovely bed, I awake and feel that everything has been a long dream, a dream that I do not want to forget. It is as if such an incredible experience could hardly ever have happened, but it has, and I have to account for it.

The first week in Bangaluru

The heat says us hello at the airport. A new passport stamp after a slow queue. First impressions, knackered after a flight with no long visit from Morpheus, of one of the most populous cities in India: Bangaluru. It occurs on the bus trip to Silvepura, where we will rest and meet Kieran, a friendly guide and ambassador of the area that offers his house and his wisdom.

The week in Bangalore takes place with visits to the city and with school teaching in the morning, at one of the Pakrirma Foundation schools, followed by daytime activities at the Baale Mane orphanage. We make different handicrafts with the girls in a more relaxed environment.

My impression of the city and its people is positive. However, everything goes fleetingly, without so much time to sit in the cafeteria and watch the scene, walk around the city, stand to observe. Stop the time where contemplation really takes place. In our trip, everything runs quickly, but you can take some impressions, although the trees still prevent you from seeing the forest.

I am struck by dead animals in butchers, hung on hooks, surrounded by flies and dust without any refrigeration. The soil mixed with the tarmac in the streets, the dirt, the dilapidated state of the buildings, the traffic chaos, without signals or traffic lights and with the constant honking. The ceaseless movement of people merges with the passive contemplation of shopkeepers waiting for a new client. Everything is full of shops and small businesses of all kinds, even within the most rural zones. The area is making its way forward. A positive attitude immediately rubs off on me when observing the will of these people to prosper through their work. Many things are going on in Bangaluru: construction, improving infrastructure, expanding the city. It seems that everything is more or less underway, in the process. This also makes me happy. I do not see the existential emptiness of the west in these people, that strange nihilism, melancholy, which plagues rich countries because they have lost their connection with nature, with the need to improve that gives so much meaning to life: a purpose, to survive, to improve, to thrive!

Although this suffering seems sad to others, I understand it as a positive means for improvement. My mother tells me, poor people, they have no way out, but I say: no mum, every way is a way out, a way forward.

I spend some time thinking about the school. Inspiring, its founder, Shukla Bose, offers us a story of social change. An example of "yes you can". Once being very experienced in the corporate world, she decided to found the Parikrma Foundation, today with more than 4 privately-funded schools through donations serving hundreds of disadvantaged children in the area. We can observe children's joy in learning, their desire, their momentum. It is beautiful to be able to teach children like these, who can only find ways to improve.

Baale’s girls take some time to connect with us...it’s normal, but once it happens, the relationship goes deep with a beautiful joint visit to the local temple on a Friday holiday. We cry when we say goodbye for they have touched our hearts.

Second Week: Trip to Kerala

On Saturday we prepare the backpack and leave for Ernakulam accompanied by Kieran, on a train that leaves at 7 in the afternoon (approx) and arrives at around 5 in the morning. The trip evokes memories of Harry Potter. A slow train, with open doors during the journey. Our couch has beds and air conditioning. I fall asleep listening to the rattle of the tracks, the slow rocking of the wagon. The intermittent tossing and turning pushes me to observe through the window, in a quick glance, the distant lights of unknown places.

Upon arrival, we meet Bajiu, a friend of Kieran. A new bus takes us to Aluva to observe the final ritual of the festival before dawn: people bathing in the Periyar river that we observe from Manappuram bridge. Then we head to Fort Kochi, tired, where we leave our backpacks and set out to walk around our new city. The heat is suffocating, humid, very different from Bangaluru. The former mayor welcomes us and tells us the history of the place, among fishermen's nets and Portuguese influences. The area is friendly, cheerful for tourists. We learn about spices. We see the elephants’ parade. At night we drink some beer and meet local people, two guys from Fort Cochi. We meet other foreigners, two German lads and an Italian lady. These experiences are enormously enriching for me, the relaxed contact with the locals allows us to visit their thoughts, their worldview, while tasting nice Indian drinks and laughing. 

After some shopping and some local visits, we depart. We stop at a coir factory in our way. We also stop to swim at a beautiful beach in Marai. Then we arrive to Alappuzha for one night. We watch the sunset and take a boat ride, watching the rice fields, the way people live, the vegetation of the area. The weather is nicer and a bit colder.

Soon we leave for Periyai Park, in Kumily. Of course, with a mandatory stop to see the endless tea fields. The area offers us with charm the best hotel, in my opinion, thanks to the better temperature of the mountain. It is very fun to observe the behaviour of the little monkeys that live in the area. A ferry on the lake delights our taste at contemplating the wild nature. In Kumily we observe the martial arts of the area, Kalaripayattu. Also, the strange facial dance, offered to ancient monarchs, which focuses on facial movements: Kathakali. On top of this, the Jeep trip across the mountain trails with lots of fun. We are not leaving without a full body massage, for 1,000 rupees (around 10 pounds). An excellent massage, carried out in a different way than I have ever tried in Europe. Perfect and exotic to never forget.

Then we leave for Madurai. I wake up that day sick, with diarrhoea and fever. I vomit all the chicken I ate last night. The trip becomes unbearable. My stomach has decided to shut down. See you later, thank you. The passage of water is no longer allowed.

Half dizzy, and having fasted all day, I visit the Madurai temple. Perhaps, it is a gift from India, as fasting is an essential ingredient of proper religious experience. The temple impresses me greatly. I find it difficult to put it in words, but I am surprised by the ancient character of the aesthetic expression of Hinduism. The mix of animals, the long columns. The way stone is sculpted. It is the sensation of a very ancient spiritual representation, much older than the Roman or Greek. There is no mathematical order of Greco-Roman columns and harmony. It is different. It is deeper as if it was embedded at the bottom of a primitive human psyche, before the numerical reason that configures other architectures. I also reflect on fasting and its consequences on me. I feel calm, in a huge peace that I have never felt before. There is no apex of anxiety. Not a hint of thoughts crashing into my mind. It is pure contemplation, peace. Connection with the place. It is just now, living the moment. 

Madurai is intriguing and utterly different to the other cities. Dilapidated, with stained buildings. Dust and dirt on the streets, cows, other animals mixing with people on the streets. It is a dirty, messy city. No tourists are seen around. Lack of hygiene makes me think me of filth. I am surprised that there is such a thing as I get amazed at the richness of variety in the world. I wonder why and I calmly find no answers. Unconcibeable for some, a reality for others. People flow. A bunch of people live in Madurai, anchored in another time, in another century, in another world? They belong to that world and inhabit it. I imagine for a moment what it would be like to belong to that world, to have been born there and not to know the world from which I come. It is so different. I find such a difference incredible and I wonder how it can exist. Difference becomes the richness of existence. What a privilege to have known a bit about this culture.

At night I eat some cooked rice, my stomach has opened its doors again. Finally, we depart from Madurai to Bangaluru. Another train trip, even better than the other. A deeper rest. We arrive at "home" (at Kieran's house in Bangaluru, known land), rest, pack up and prepare to return.

The flight goes well. I have pain in my back after being sat for a long time. I appreciate the taxi that takes us to Sheffield. What a rest from traffic suffering! I go to sleep and wake up; I feel that everything has been a dream; I quickly sit down to write this text.

Francisco Canovas Garcia.

Wednesday 25th February - Periyar Day 2

Boat safari? Massage? Jeep ride? All of the above? Today was the day we experienced Periyar in all of its glory!

We started the day early; reaching Periyar Lake with our sea legs primed, and readied with the bulkiest, brightest lifejackets imaginable. We saw egrets, mongoose, langurs, macaques... but nothing could detract from what we saw next. Three adult elephants - with one calf in tow - sharing the waters edge with a herd of bison. A truly unforgettable experience.

Mid-day gifted us with some free time, where many opted for a traditional full body massage. When asked how people found the experience, many replied with “it was interesting”!

Our final Periyar treat came in the form of a Jeep safari. Exactly as amazing as it sounds. The incredibly bumpy ride consisted of breathtaking views, dispersed with periodic stops en route; with the journey commencing at a 200 year old farm which grew spices and medicinal plants. Alison tried some Euphorbia hirta with the assurance that this would cure her asthma (verdict pending!). 

Back in the jeep, we passed numerous tea plantations, and parked up outside “Gods Garden”. The path from the garden took us down to a select reach of the Periyar River, strewn with water lilies, and littered with student teachers trying to look candid. 

We continued to trudge through the wilderness, with very few signs of human impact other than the less than even dirt track winding through the forests and grasslands (comparing bruises and war wounds from the bumpy ride later ensued). Even so, spirits were incredibly high; breaking through the evening birdsong with our truly stunning rendition of One Direction’s That’s What Makes You Beautiful (sorry Periyar!) as the sun set on a day to remember.

Tuesday 25th February - Travel to Periyar

We started the day with an early boat ride around Alleppey’s backwaters, stopping off at a riverside cafe for a coffee and a salmon pink banana (they hadn’t gone off, they were just an Indian variety of banana!). We then went to a local restaurant for a dosa to celebrate pancake day, and started the four hour journey to Periyar in the Western Ghats. The scenery was amazing when we were driving through the mountains; we even stopped at a cafe for lunch that had a panoramic view of the landscape! To break up the journey we also visited a rubber tree plantation and a tea plantation to learn about the harvesting process.

When we arrived at the Hotel Ambadi Thekkady in Periyar we were greeted by monkeys running around the outside space. We were warned to keep our doors shut at all times to stop them from coming in and stealing our stuff! In the evening we went to a traditional martial arts show where Esther and Alex were asked to participate by standing in a line while one man jumped over them and 4 other people! We finished the day by having dinner in the hotel’s restaurant, then had an early night ready for a busy day on Wednesday.

Monday 24th February - travel to Allepy

Today we departed Cochin, a place which earned a fond place in our hearts, to travel to Alleppey. On the way we made several stops, with one particular highlight - a beach where we could have a swim!
Our first stop was to visit a coir factory cooperative, where coconut husks are transformed into ropes and mats. The machinery used harks back to a preindustrial era with hard physical and repetitive work required. We learned that there used to be 180 workers employed there, on our visit there were only a dozen or so still there.
A short stop for drinks followed, with the welcome addition of a quick paddle in the sea. We then visited a church, which had originally been built by the Dutch in the 16th century. There are now two church buildings on the same site, the older and smaller historic building and a larger and modern new church. The church grounds were full of statues depicting scenes from the new testament.
As we got closer to Alleppey the opportunity for some proper beach time arose and was indulged in by all. Some of us ended up more pink than others at the end of our refreshing pre-lunch dip.  After a relaxing lunch we headed to our accomodation for the night, a couple of more traditional guesthouses - though it was sad to be split up, experiencing such different and interesting residences was another great experience. After refreshing showers all round we headed along Alleppey canals to the beach in time for a magical sunset to conclude the day. 

Sunday 23rd February - Cochin Day 2

Today we spent our second day in Cochin. We started off the day by going to a communal centre where people would go to wash their clothes. After this we went to the Mattancherry Palace. This told a history of Cochin and had many historical artifacts and murals. In the palace we found out that Cochin has been ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch and the English. There has only ever been one female ruler of Cochin and it was Rani Gangadhara Lakshmi (1656-58). Before lunch we had a talk from an entymoligist where he answered our questions about the local ecosystem of Kerala and Cochin in particular. It was interesting to hear about the impact of global warming on the ecosystem. After lunch we explored the local area and markets. In the early evening we went on a boat tour of the surrounding estuary. After the boat ride we finished the day by going to an art gallery centred around all the different cultures in Cochin.

Overnight train to Cochin- Saturday 22nd

Today was one tiring long old day. We had our first experience on an authentic Indian night train. All expecting typical delays we left early but had over an hour to kill at the station. Que the coffee! 

Each compartment of the train had two sets of  triple bunks and a double bunk opposite the aisle. Safe to say it was pretty cosy. We got snuggled in and after a few games of uno we were fast asleep until a 4am wake up 555km  south west of Bangalore. The first thing that hit us was the heat and humidity. The second, our need for a coffee. 

Once sufficiently caffeinated up, we all lined up and jumped onto a coach (travelling in style) to Cochin. 

On our way we stopped at Periyar river for sunrise and to witness the festival for sheiva. Hundreds of people bathing in the river to the Hindu goddess. 

On arrival in Cochin, we were greeted by the ex mayor of the city. He gave us a whistle stop walking tour of fort Cochin, letting us know in depth history of the area and how Cochin became the city it is today including the invasion of the Portuguese, Dutch, we were showed the famous fishing nets and markets, and the first European building to be built in Asia. Next, we visited an old traditional spice factory. By this time the fatigue was setting in, back to the hotel for a siesta.

The evening saw an extension of the festival for Sheiva. We visited a temple where multiple elephants were dressed in traditional gear with gold and silver headdresses and intricate paintings on their skin. The elephants paraded along the street with a procession of followers and traditional music.

Next for time to explore the markets at night! 

Another exciting day for all of us in India. For some of us it was our first trip to a temple and for others a rather different experience than when they’ve visited temples before. On arrival at Baale Mane, we were greeted by the girls who looked marvellous for the occasion! We were warmly welcomed as always, and fully pampered by having our hair plaited, nails painted and even were treated to some lovely henna patterns! To begin our celebrations together, we exchanged some dance routines associated with our cultures.  

After only a short stroll in the sunshine, we arrived at the temple. And what a picturesque sight it was, a kaleidoscope of colour! The girls showed us the correct temple ettiequte, and soon the teachers became the students! 

It was amazing to see the positive and personal relationships we had created with the girls. Unfortunately, our time at the temple marked the end of our time with the girls at Baale Mane, which meant sadness was greatly felt on both parts. But I speak on behalf of the group that this time with the girls was truly valuable, and has provided us with memories we will hold close to our heart, and cherish for ever. 

We are now all packed up and ready to embark on another exciting adventure...the overnight train journey to Kerala!

Today was our last day at Parikrma and penultimate day at Baale Mane, a kind of bittersweet ending to our time there. Whilst our relationships with the students have blossomed over the last few days, it also meant it was harder for us to leave. We ended our time there with Geography continuing their lessons on sustainability, ecosystems, rivers and ‘Geography up close’. History and English taught some creative writing, by describing a journey on a ship. Science teachers taught some physics today, with the students making and launching their own rockets! We also led the daily school assembly, with a true or false quiz about Sheffield, hoping to teach the school a bit about us and build a bridge between two cities that are, geographically, so far away.


We also went to see the area that the Parikrma children and their families live. Words can’t describe what it was like and neither do the pictures. It was an incredibly emotional day for everyone, especially when we reflected on our experiences. You can read facts and watch documentaries about it, but to actually be there and experience it, if only for a few hours, was extremely powerful. It was amazing to see the children that we taught were so enthusiastic, and full of hope despite their situation, with an inspirational eagerness to learn. I think I can say for all of us that today was truly unforgettable.

Going to Baale Mane in the evening was, once again, great fun for all involved. Today we decorated tote bags with the girls, through a variety of ways including sewing and stickers. However, the true magic of the day came through the continuation of the building of the friendships with these girls, despite our incredibly different pathways throughout life.

Parikrma and Baale Mane Day 3.

After a breakfast where papaya was compared to marmite, we boarded our minibuses and made the journey to Parikrma, the school we are working in for the week.

We arrived at the school and were given our usual excited greeting and told that a second group of volunteers were coming today. Whilst waiting for the new group of volunteers to arrive, we saw an impromptu whole-school English comprehension exercise, followed by a show of Belgian dancing which the students had been taught by a longterm volunteer at the school. After they showed us their Belgian dance, they asked us all to join in! We all gave it a go but were not as skilled as the students at Belgian dancing!

Then we moved on to lessons. History and English taught 'What will Parikrma be like in 40 years and what was Sheffield like 200 years ago?' and the students made a time capsule for the school as it is now. Science purified water, and did reactions with mentos and coke, and bicarbonate and soda. Geography taught Rivers, Personal Geography, Biomes and Sustainability.

After teaching we observed lessons and then headed to the store Fab India for some quick souvenir shopping. We then went

back to the Land for a lovely lunch and some afternoon chill time before going to the orphanage at Baale Mane.

There we finished off yesterday's pom pom animals, made some dream catchers and finished off with parachute games.

Once back at the Land we reflected on the day and prepared for another exciting day tomorrow!